Moccasins

I just finished these wonderful baby moccasins!  The design is courtesy of Purlbee.  They knit up super quick, are very easy, and take no yarn!  They're good for using up scrap yarn.  I'm going to give these as a thank you gift.

I also think I need to make myself a large pair!  They're just so adorable!

Bulky Scarf

Whenever I go outside, I’m greeted by hundreds of bulky scarfs in the streets.  This is the fashionable style now, and I really wanted one for myself.  I went into a shop and looked around, but they all cost a fortune!  So I thought to myself, why don’t I just re-create one?  The pattern didn’t seem complicated, and after a few minutes of looking around, I had a pattern in my head. 

It’s connected in a round, and will keep your neck very warm!  It’s not very wide so that you can wrap it around your neck 2-3 times without it getting too bulky and hard to breathe or fit under a coat! 

This is a scarf that can be worn with any style of winter coat, and even goes well with a light jacket or a shirt. The best part about it is that it’s knit with a bulky yarn, so it knits up quickly and is very easy.  Good for beginners.  So if you’re looking for a scarf that costs less than buying one in the shop, but wont give you a headache trying to knit, you’re in the right place! 

Yarn Recommended:

A bulky or super bulky yarn is the best for this project.  You’ll probably need 2 or 3 skeins. 

What You’ll Need:

-2 Size 13 US (9 MM) either straight needles or circular.

- Scrap yarn

-tapestry needle

Dimensions:

Length : 63.5 in (5 feet 3 inches or 184cm) around or 32 in (92cm) when folded in half

Width : 3.5 in (9cm)

Abbrivations:

C/O = Cast on

B/O = bind off

K = Knit

P = Purl

Sl 1 yb = slip one stitch with the yarn in back

Sl 1 yf = slip one stitch with the yarn in front

Instructions:

1.   C/O 13 stitches using a provisional cast on.  (If you’ve never done this, here’s a good video that shows 3 ways to do a provisional cast on http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GSwG6SJ1z2I)

2.   Work in k1p1 ribbing across the 13 stitches (starting and ending on a knit stitch).

3.   Turn work

4.   Sl 1 yf and continue in k1p1 ribbing (starting on a k st and ending on a p st)

5.   Turn Work

6.   Sl1 yb and continue in k1p1 ribbing (starting on a p st and ending on a k st)

7.   Turn work

8.   Repeat steps 4-7 until scarf is desired length.

9.   Pick up the 13 stitches from the provisional cast on and put them on a needle. 

10.      Cut a 7-8inch tail of your main yarn.

11.      Use the kitchner stitch to sew the two ends together.

Kitchner Stitch:

1.     Break off yarn leaving a 6” tail.

2.     Thread yarn through tapestry needle.

3.     Hold needles parallel (each has 8 st on it)

4.     Pull needle through 1^st st on front needle as if to knit, and pull the stitch off.

5.     Pull yarn through 2^nd st on front needle as if to purl.  Leave on needle.

6.     Pull yarn through 1^st st on back needle as if to purl, and pull the st off.

7.     Pull yarn through 2^nd st on back needle and leave on.

8.     Repeat steps 4-7 until one st remains.

9.  Pull remaining yarn through the loop and weave in ends!

Country Home Tea Cozy

Country Home Tea Cozy

Tea cozies add a fancy/chic aspect to any tea party!  This cozy really hits the home run with it’s simple and elegant style. This pattern is fairly simple, and took me about a day to construct and knit.

Yarn recommended: 

Either cotton or wool yarn works here, but you might opt for cotton, because it’s easier to wash. 

This project does ask for a double strand of yarn, so don’t use anything too chunky.  I used worsted weight wool/acrylic mix (I don’t have the name because I used some leftover yarn I had lying around).

What you will need:

-5 size 4 US (3.5 MM) double pointed needles.

-1 stitch marker

-tapestry needle

Dimensions:

I made this for a teapot that, at it’s largest, measures 14,5 inches (37cm), and at it’s tallest measures 4,5 inches (11cm), although the belly is a bit big and can stretch to fit a fatter pot. 

Abbreviations:

C/O = Cast on

B/O – Bind off

K = Knit

P = Purl

PM = Place Marker

K2tog = Knit 2 together

Inc 1 = increase 1 stitch by knitting front to back

Sl 1 = Slip one stitch from left to right needle (ALWAYS AS IF TO PURL!)

YO = Yarn over

YF = Bring yarn to the front

YB = Bring yarn to the back

Instructions:

11.     C/O 9 st.  Knit one row as if on straight needles and then join in the round, spreading evenly over 3 dp needles.

22.     PM

33.     K1, inc 1, K1 over each of the 3 needles (12 st)

44.     Knit 1 row even, dividing the stitches evenly over 4 needles (3 st per needle)

55.     K1, inc 1, k1 over each of the 4 needles (16 st)

66.     K1, inc1, inc 1, k1 over each of the 4 needles (24 st)

77.     K1, inc 1, knit to 2 before the end of the needle, inc 1, k1.

88.     Repeat step 6 until there are 20 stitches on each needle (80 st total)

99.     *k1, yf, sl 1, yb * repeat * to * until the end of the round.

110. Knit 1 row

111.  *yf, sl 1, yb, k1 * repeat * to * until the end of the round

112.  Knit 1 row

113. *k1, yf, sl 1, yb * repeat * to * until the end of the round.

114. Purl back [This is now the start of the opening for the handle.  Instead of working in the round, the piece will now be worked as if on straight needles.]

115. *yf, sl 1, yb, k1 * repeat * to * until the end of the round

116. Purl 37 stitches

117. With a piece of scrap yarn, purl 6 st. (this will be used at the end like an afterthought heel.)

118. Slip these 6 st from the right hand needle to the left hand one. 

119. Purl over these 6 stitches again, but with the main yarn, and purl to the end of the round.

220. *k1, yf, sl 1, yb * repeat * to * until the end of the round.

221. Purl 1 row

222. *yf, sl 1, yb, k1 * repeat * to * until the end of the round

223. Purl 1 row.

224. Repeat steps 20-23 (4 rounds knit)

225. Repeat steps 20-22 (3 rounds knit)

226. Re-join the work in a round and knit 1 row.

227. *k1, yf, sl 1, yb * repeat * to * until the end of the round.

228. K1, k2tog, knit to 3 before the end of the needle, k2tog, k1 (18 st per needle)

229. Repeat step 28 until 10 st remain on each needle (40 total)

330. B/O using Jenny’s Super Stretchly Bind Off

a.     YO, K1

b.     Pull YO over K stitch (1 st on right hand needle)

c.      YO, K1

d.     Pull YO over K stitch (2 st on right hand needle)

e.      Pull right hand stitch over stitch that was just made (1st on right needle)

f.      Repeat steps c-e until one st remains on right hand needle.  Cut a long tail and thread through loop.

331. Pick up the 12 stitches on the scrap yarn.  (if you’ve never done this before, here’s a good video to help you out!  Start at 0:37)

332. K6, pick up 1 st from the gap

333. K6 pick up another stitch from the gap (7 st on each needle)

334. On the top needle (the one that is closest to the lid of the teapot) K1, k2tog, k1, k2tog, k1 (5 st on this needle)

325. Knit straight across the second needle (7 stitches on this needle)

336. Do the same B/O here that you did for the underbelly of the cozy.

337. Tie in ends.  To let the top handle of the teapot through, I simply did not pull the yarn through the 9 st I initially cast on.  If your teapot is different, you can, of course, close the hole.  

338. If you think blocking will help, go for it!  If not, make yourself a nice cup of tea J

Ye Olde Tyme Christmas Stockings

When I was younger, my favorite part of Christmas was opening the stocking presents.  My grandmother had made wonderful knit stockings with all of our initials on them, that could fit anything and everything that could be put into a stocking!  They stretched and bulged, and lost their shape so many presents were put into them, but they made for a real Christmas feeling!  Over the years, families moved, and the stockings were eventually lost in the folly, but this year, I decided to take on the project to re-make this christmas stockings for this winter.

I had 14 stockings to knit, and the best thing about this pattern is how fast it knits up!  If you're a quick knitter, you can finish one in about 2 days.  So, get your needles out, you've got about a month left to get them done!

Yarn:

Worsted weight

Needles:

 Size 7 (US) 16” round needles

4 size 7 (US) double pointed needles

Abbreviations:

C/O  = Cast on

B/O = Bind off

S1 = Slip one st (always as if to pearl)

K= Knit

P= Purl

K2tog = Knit 2 together

P2tog = Purl 2 together

MC = Main color

AC = Accent color

PM = Place marker

The stockings:

1. C/O 64 st on a 16” in AC on a 16” round needle PM and then work in k2p2 ribbing for 30 rows.  This makes the cuff of the stocking.
2. Switch to MC.  Fold the cuff in half and knit the two ends together, creating a hem.
3. Knit in MC for 10 rows.
4. Switch to AC for the pattern (which in my case was 6 rows).
5. Switch to MC and knit 9 rows.
6. Switch to AC and do the inverse of the pattern knit above.
7. Switch to MC and knit for 40 rows. 
8. Knit across round needle until 16 st remain. 
9. Switch to AC ( LEAVE THE MC ATTATCHED, DO NOT CUT) and work in Sl1 k1 across 32 st.  This is what will become the heel. 
10. Turn the work.
11. Sl1 st and purl the rest of the row.
12. Turn work.
13. Repeat steps 9-12 until you have knit 19 rows (ends on a knit row).
14. Turn work and purl across 18 st. p2tog, p1 (this is where the heel gets turned)
15. Turn work, slip 1^st st, k5, k2tog, k1
16. Turn work, slip 1^st st, p6, p2tog, p1
17. Turn work, slip 1^st st, k7, k2tog, k1
18. Keep working in this manner, being careful to always slip the first st until 18 st remain on the heel. 
19. Now that the heel has been turned cut the AC string and slip the heel st to the left hand needle.
20. PM and pick up the MC and pick up 9 st along the heel flap. 
21. Knit across the heel of the stocking and pick up another 9 st on the other side of the heel flap.  PM and knit around to starting marker.  (you should now have 68 st, 36 of them in between the heel markers)
22. After starting marker, k until 3 st remain before marker, k2tog, k1. 
23. Knit across the top of the foot.
24. After second marker, k1, k2tog continue to the starting marker.
25. Second round: k all the way across without decreases. 
26. Repeat steps 22-25 until there are once again 64 total st (this should take about 3 decrease rows).
27. Knit for 25 rows. 
28. Switch to AC, knit until 3 st remain before marker  k2tog, k1 (like for decrease), move marker, k1, k2tog knit until 3 st remain, k2tog, k1, move marker, k1, k2tog, knit until the end of the row.
29. Knit all the way around.
30. Repeat steps 28 + 29 8 times. 
31. Now repeat step 28 until 8 st remain on both sides of the stocking (heel and top of the foot).
32. Cut string, leaving a 6” tail and cast off using the Kitchner st.
33. Sew in loose ends, and embroider in the initials or names, and you’re done!

Quaint Gift Sack

This is a really quick and simple gift bag to make to hold anything for anyone!  You can make it in any size you can think of, and it will mold to fit any shape!  Although, if you go too big it turns into a grocery bag and becomes very see-through!  I used mine to hold the Pair of Birthday Slippers I made not too long ago!  There are two tops available with this bag, the first is just a simple bind off and the second creates more of a present type top.  Instructions are included for both!




Yarn:
The best thing about this pattern is that you can really use any yarn you want on any size needles.  If you want the bag to be bulkier and less see-through, use a bulkier yarn on a smaller needle.  For mine, I used a Fingering, almost Sport weight (Phildar Charly – gauge = 20stx28 rows = 1.5 in on size 3 US needles).

 Abbreviations:

C/O = Cast on
B/O = Bind off 
K = Knit 
P = Purl 
Inc1 = Increase 1 st 
K2tog = Knit two together
YO = yarn over 
Kfb = Knit front back, increasing 1 st 


Are you ready? 
 1.C/O 8 st and divide evenly across 4 dp needles This is always a little bit tricky, but once you increase to 4-5 st per needle it gets a whole lot easier! I like to knit a row with the 8 st just to get all the needles in place. 
2.After the first row, k1, inc1 k1 on each needle. There should now be a total of 3 st per needle, or 12 total.
3.K1, inc1, k2 on each needle (16st total) 
4.K1, inc1 k the rest on the needle (your total number of st should increase by an increment of 4 each time) 
5.Keep going in this manner until there are 15st on each needle (60st total…or however many you want for the size of the bag but keep in mind that the bag will stretch a lot, so don’t make the bottom too big! 
6.Now, YO, K2tog for the whole row. This will take some maneuvering of stitches the first row or so, and you always need to YO before you K2tog on each needle. 
7.Now, knit an entire row. 
8.Follow steps 6+7 until the bag reaches its desired length! (Mine was probably around 40 rows, but I didn’t count, I’m sorry!) 
9.To make the top cuff of the bag simply, K2tog all the way around until you have cut your number of stitches in half (if you’re following my pattern, you should now have 30 st total). 
10.(If you want, you can switch to a 2nd color here, which will be a nice accent)P entire row 
11.K entire row 
12.Repeat steps 10+11 until you’ve got about 5 nubs. (if you want more, add more!) 

13. If you want to ruffled top:On a knit row, increase 3 stitches in every stitch (Kbf,k in 1 st) around 14. Purl a row
15. Kfb every stitch.
16. Do a 2 row bind off:
          a)K1, P1
          b) Slip K st over P st, leaving P st on right hand needle
          c) Continue steps a-b around.
          d) slip the first 2 st from the left hand needle to the right hand needle.  Slip 1st stitch over the 2nd to bind off.
          e) slip next st from left to right needle and bind off in the same way.  Continue around.

17.If you want the straight top:B/O using the "Stretchy Yarn Bind Off" (Click on link to go to a website that gives very clear instructions + a video!) The first time I just bound off normally, and it made it really hard to fit anything into the bag, since it doesn’t stretch. 

Drawstring To make the drawstring: C/O 2 st to a dp needle. 1.Knit these stitches. 2.Slide stitches to other end of needle.
3.Pull yarn across back, and knit across. Giving the cord a fairly tight tug will make the cord even (it should look like a shoelace) 4.Repeat until you can easily fit the cord around the top cuff of the bag and tie a bow with it (about 30 inches, but measure anyway) 5.B/O by slipping one of the stitches over the other. Cut a long tail and pull through.
To weave in the cord, simply put a needle onto the tail of one of the ends and stick it through the top cuff of the bag (from outside to inside) and about 5 st later pull the needle through the top cuff again (inside to outside this time), and again 5 st later, push the cord through (outside à inside).  It should be really easy to just pull the cord through afterwards.  Repeat until the cord goes all the way around.

Stick your present inside!

 Tie a bow!
Make someone very happy!

It looks a little sad with nothing in it...

If you have any questions or comments, please don't hesitate to contact me via e-mail or Ravelry (my page here)!